Saturday, June 26, 2004

After my last post here, I said I was going to Esfahan. Well that was

about a week ago, but I only arrived in Esfahan yesterday. Tempted by

the good company of phil and martin, and the comfort of Phil's

landrover, I continued with them to Kerman and Bam. I ended up riding

with Paulet and Emit, a couple from dublin/cornwall driving a ford

transit to India. We convoyed through the dessert which was way off my

original planned route, but I decided that the adventure would be well

worth it and it would be a good way to get out of the cities and off

the beaten track.

Two nights later, and two police escorts out of the dessert and we realise perhaps we were not supposed to be going off the beaten track. .. 600km east were the borders of Afghanistan and Pakistan and the routes that we decided to take were also, it turned out, popular with heroin traffickers, crossing Iran for turkey and onto Europe.

At first we were alarmed by the armed (with kalashnikov's) police presence, asking us what we were doing and why we were here, but afterwards we realise that they really were concerned for our safety. At one point we continued along a track not marked on the map, only to find a beautiful oasis town high up in the mountains. Again the police stopped us and said we could not go any further, but after a cold drink and a chat, they invited us to come swim in the nearby spring, although the local children had to stop washing the persian rugs before we could get in.

The police put us back on the track to Bam (assuming we were lost!) and we arrived there that afternoon. There was apprehension in the group about visiting Bam. Only 6 months ago, on boxing day 2004, an earthquake leveled the city and killed 30,000 people. the government has forbidden rebuilding of the city until a plan has been produced to make sure it can be rebuilt with materials that will withstand another quake. There were still 2 aftershocks whilst we were there although in the middle of the night and we were not woken. Many people are still living in tents, but the same hospitality as the rest of Iran was there. Still people smiling and saying hello, despite the certainty that they recently went though the trauma of their friends and relatives being killed. One third of the town died in the quake.

more to come.

Saturday, June 19, 2004

My degree results came in, and I have a first with an average of 72 percent, so I am very pleased.

advanced inf sys 83
project 73
distrib and networks 77
virtual adv graphics 61
japanese 69

I left Shiraz and Hamoon's family who really made me feel welcome here in Iran, I had a fantastic time there. Unfortunately I left with a bit of a cold but I'm feeling fine now.

I am in Kerman in the south of Iran and I am travelling with Phil, a Swiss guy from Basel and Martin a German from Dresden. Phil has driven his LandRover here from Switzerland and me and Martin are hitching with him at the moment. I will turn around in a few days and take the train to Esfahan, where as the others will continue to Pakistan. Phil is trying to go to Vietnam, but may have to stop at the Burma border.

The last week was very funny. I took a bus to Yazd, 7 hours east of Shiraz and stayed at the Silk Road Hotel, a fantastic backpackers lodge in an amazing traditional house with courtyard inside. That evening I was introduced to Amu Purang (I now know the spelling is amo-poorang, and I think he has his own blog - 1-20-06), otherwise known as Mr Prank, Iran's best known children's TV presenter. We got along well, and he was impressed by my knowledge of the Iranian sitcom "Bamshod" which I repeated the catchphrases and songs that I had learnt whilst it was too hot in the afternoons in Shiraz.

So the next day he asked me to appear on his TV show, I was special guest "Mr John" from "overseas" (I said I was from England in one take, and we had to cut it!) So at first I just had one scene where I was talking on the phone to an imaginary character but in the end, I was in every scene as we walked around the "Yadz water museum"

My lines:
Gollyjan, gollyjan Kujai? -gollyjan gollyjan, where are you?
Bagaleh gatuk, bamur ganeh! -two delicious Iranian foods.
Gollyjan emshab mi me maneh! -gollyjan tonight you are my guest.

None of the childen have ever met Gollyjan, he is just a squeeky voice on the end of the phone... but I had come all the way from "abroad" to find him.

Uncle Prank! at Yazd Stadium, Iran.

Click here for more photos

Anyhow, I really made friends with all the TV crew and had lunch with them. In the afternoon they invited me to the next filming which was at the local stadium. As we arrived there were hundreds of people pouring in the entrance, and I thought Uncle Prank was joking when he said that they were all there to see him. There were about 5000 people there and later he brought me on as special guest to recite my lines again. By the end of it, I was a celebrity, and as we both drove out of the stadium to cries of "MR John... MR John!"

The ride out of the sadium was crazy, the car was mobbed by hundreds of people banging on the windows and screaming, wanting his autograph and throwing flowers into the car. There was no police escort, and no organisation, we were trapped in the usual Iranian traffic and nomatter how fast we drove or swerved through the traffic in front of us, a trail of 20 young guys on motorbikes followed us, at one point driving in front of the car to slow us down. Eventually we had to drive into the local police station and switch cars before we could continue.

Anyhow, I had not realised quite how popular Amu Poorang was but I think the stadium gig was live on TV and there are only 3 channels in Iran. I keep getting recognised in the street. at the hotel that evening I signed an autograph and was given a present... I was only paying 70p (1000 toman, 10,000 Rial) to sleep on the roof of the hotel, but it is a beautiful hotel, and popular with backpackers. Foreigners are something of a celebrity in themselves here as there are so few.

The show should have gone out yesterday, but it was not on when they said it would be, so maybe next week instead. I'm meeting up with the TV crew in Tehran again next week, but I don't think for more TV, just to say hi. My royalties were lunch and dinner at the hotel, so I was happy. oh, plus my Amu Purang watch, very stylish indeed...

I left Yazd with Phil and Martiyn and we drove throught the dessert to Chak Chak, a Zoastrian fire temple and world pilgrimage site, for the 700,000 Zoatrians that there are in the world. This religion was the original persian religion before the Arabs brought Islam to Persia. Chak Chak was a beautiful mountain hide-away, where 5 daughters of the king of Persia hid from the invading Arabs because they did not want to convert to Islam. The usual Iranian hospitality followed and a great party was had that would definately not be found anywhere else in Iran.

Later we camped in the dessert and slept under the milkyway. The day after visiting a shaking minaret in an old mosque and then sleeping in a Caravanai in the dessert, fantastic food and company, and just found on the off chance.

More to come soon... Esfahan next...

Monday, June 14, 2004

How sad, a story about over-protective airport security in Los Angeles Guardian Unlimited | Special reports | Weekend feature: American homeland security

Saturday, June 12, 2004

Simon Cumbers was no relation, but I had an exchange of emails with him a few years ago to find this out. MediaGuardian.co.uk | Media | Simon Cumbers

Wednesday, June 09, 2004

Smoking hooka in a tea house in Shiraz, Iran, with Hamoon and family

Some more photos of the middle-east

Tuesday, June 08, 2004

I took a ferry from Sharjah in the United Arab Emirates to Bandar Abbas in Iran on Sunday night, after meeting up with Rashid a friend of Mohammed from Hull, and Lydia, my cousin Seth's girlfriends sister.. in Dubai.

Iran is incredible. The country and its people are so different from the image of them that is portrayed in the media. I am here in Shiraz, staying with Hamoon, a friend from USM in Malaysia. I am here for a few more days, so I will take time to write down some thoughts and then put them here.

See you soon,

John

Friday, June 04, 2004

I arrived in Muscat, Oman and was met by Salim, Nabhan's(from Hull) brother. I have had a great few days being shown around the Capital City and then Salim and Nabhan's village.

The man/woman seperation is the thing that strikes me the most here as I have only spoken to a few women in shops. I can't express the differences very well here, but after I have been here longer and I get more used to it, I will have a think and let you know.

Oman is beautiful, I have only seen a small amount of it, but the flight in went past huge seaping deserts and jagged grey mountains. The country is steeped in history and has some beautiful old forts and mosques, a few we visited yesterday.

my hotel is nice, 18 pounds a night, 10 Omani Rials,
Tomorrow I take a bus to Dubai. air-con, fridge and Tv. A bitup market to the usual haunts, but about the cheapest I can find here though...

thejourney continues...

Tuesday, June 01, 2004

The plot thickens... or does it fall apart at the seams?Guardian Unlimited | Special reports | US intelligence fears Iran duped hawks into Iraq war